All living things, sooner or later, are subjected to the destructive effects of time. Skin aging occurs in everyone, and this is an obvious fact. But not everyone knows that this process manifests itself in different ways, with different speeds and deformations. The withering of the skin depends on the structural features of the soft tissues. In some people, the skin on the face is covered with a net of small wrinkles, while in others, even in adulthood, there are few wrinkles, but the shape of the face changes very much.
Knowing your type of aging, you can prolong your youth and choose the right anti-aging skincare.
There are 4 main visual types of skin aging:
- Tired type of aging
- Small wrinkled type of aging
- Deformation type of aging
- Muscle type of aging
And 3 biological skin aging:
- Intrinsic aging
- Extrinsic aging
- Hormonal and catabolic aging
Tired type of aging
This type is more common. He is also called a “tired face.” This type of skin aging is considered as the most natural. Its manifestation is a decrease in the tone of soft tissues. A slight swelling appears on the face, nasolabial folds and lacrimal grooves become more noticeable, the corners of the mouth drop, dark circles appear under the eyes. Due to these changes, the face looks tired.
Small wrinkled type of aging
Most often, this type of aging is found in thin women. The appearance of wrinkles occurs quite early in life, as the skin of these women is dry and thin, subcutaneous fat is poorly developed. In such skin, deformation and sagging are almost invisible, but expression lines are pronounced, both vertical and horizontal. The problem is the lack of sebum production.
Deformation type of aging
Representatives of the weaker sex with excess weight most often experience this type of aging. Such ladies have well-developed subcutaneous fat, usually dense porous skin. With age, the skin loses its elasticity and collagen frame. As a result, the face contour is deformed, and under the influence of gravity the skin “slides” and “falls” down.
There is a weakening of the ligamentous and muscular apparatus. The skin becomes flabby. Due to skin changes on the face, sagging cheeks, and a second chin, bags under the eyes, swollen upper eyelids appear. And also deep folds appear in the nasolabial region, on the neck and in the decollete. The only plus is a relatively small number of wrinkles and age spots.
Muscle or muscle type of aging
A feature of the muscular type of aging is the well-developed facial muscles of the face. This type of aging is most often found in people with an Asian type of face. The oval of the face is practically not violated.
The face becomes more prominent with age, as facial muscles are well developed, and subcutaneous fat is weak. And so the lower part of the face remains smooth for a long time. The skin is covered with age spots, fine wrinkles appear in the eye area, deep folds in the nasolabial area, the corners of the mouth are down.
The Biology of Skin Aging
The process of skin aging is complex and multi-factorial, as structural, functional and aesthetic changes occur at different rates. It is a mistake to consider skin aging as a single biological event; several different biological processes can occur Simultaneously. There are five types of skin aging, including internal, external, lifestyle, hormonal, or catabolic.
Proper, chronological aging reflects the passage of time from gravity and genetics. External aging is usually associated with photo-aging and Smoking. Lifestyle or behavioral aging includes diet, alcohol, and drugs. Hormonal aging involves dysfunction or aging of the hormonal system. Finally, catabolic aging is associated with chronic diseases. These types will be explained here.
Intrinsic aging
Intrinsic aging is a slow process with clinical signs such as smooth, pale, dry and less elastic skin with fine lines that are not visible until old age. Internally aged skin shows epidermal and dermal atrophy, a reduced number of fibroblasts, less collagen, and more matrix metalloproteinases (MMR). Its structurally altered skin-epidermal junction (DEJ) may contribute to increased skin fragility and reduced nutrient transfer between the dermal and epidermal layers.
Extrinsic aging
Extrinsic aging caused by chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (photo-aging) and Smoking leads to deep and coarse wrinkles, mottled hyperpigmentation, and reduced skin elasticity. The skin of the face is exposed to the accumulation of sun exposure throughout life, which is the cause of 80% of the effects of facial aging, i.e. premature skin aging and skin cancer. While the photo-aged epidermis shows atrophy and abnormal maturation of keratinocytes, skin changes entail the accumulation of elastic material (solar elastosis) and loss of integrity of the elastic fiber. These changes lead to a decrease in the elasticity of the skin and are manifested in the form of wrinkles.
Smoking also accelerates aging, causing the degradation of elastic fibers and a significant increase in facial wrinkles. The wrinkles in smokers are deep and narrow compared to non-smokers. This pattern of wrinkles is called “smoker’s face” and is often accompanied by haggard facial features and an atrophic, gray, uneven skin color. 5 in addition, narrowing of the lips and squinting when inhaling smoke can lead to the formation of sharply defined crow’s feet and prominent perioral lines.
Hormonal and catabolic aging
The skin is a hormone-dependent organ, and a decrease in hormonal secretion during menopause accelerates skin aging. Menopause appears as a turning point in life, with a decrease in skin quality. Estrogen, in particular, has a profound effect on the skin, stimulating the production of extracellular matrix and preventing the reduction of collagen, skin thickness, skin hydration and the function of the epidermal barrier. Increased sagging, in contrast to coarse wrinkles, is the main symptom of postmenopausal aging. Catabolic aging further compromises old skin due to exposure to a certain chronic disease, such as diabetes, hypothyroidism, cancer, or infection.
Holistic approach
Anti-aging skincare technologies are becoming more and more high-tech, focused on specific cellular phenomena. However, as shown above, skin aging is the sum of several simultaneous aging processes that differ in the degree of aging among people. Photoaging has received more attention in research and the media, but this is only one aspect of the aging process. Although the rationale for sun protection is widely promoted, people still associate it with an occasional vacation.
Photoaging affects people of the same age and type of photos in different ways, 10 and may not show up for decades after the initial damage. To ensure good environmental protection, you should use daily skincare products containing a combination of SPF 20+ and a range of antioxidants.
The “classic” concept of postmenopausal skin aging is often neglected because its impact is difficult to assess. In women, internal and postmenopausal aging are linked. There are a number of technologies developed to help skin changes from internal aging or menopause, such as keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation and DEJ repair. Examples of active substances that have been clinically tested, although on the forearms and not on the face, include c-xyloside, which has been shown to restore DEJ, 11, and bifidobacteria-fermented soy milk extract, which improves skin elasticity. measures should be directed at each of these processes.
Skin aging is the interaction of different types of aging that differ in different people; the best approach involves the use of multi-functional active ingredients that belong to more than one type. In addition, changing consumer attitudes towards a more holistic approach to skin health presents the next educational challenge for the skincare industry.